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PROTECTIVE GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES WHEN USING THESE PRODUCTS.
Ideal Tank Sealer application temperatures are 55°-82°F (13°-28°C).
Gold Standard Tank Sealer is a moisture-cured urethane therefore use only in moderate to dry atmospheric conditions. Avoid sealing tank in extreme wet or humid conditions which will cause the Sealer to cure too quickly resulting in improper adhesion. Carbon dioxide is released as the Sealer cures and if the Sealer should dry too quickly, CO2 will become entrapped causing surface bubbling & foaming and ineffective sealing.
NOTE: If you are sealing a Fiberglass Tank, please refer to additional instructions provided. Our Gold Standard Tank Sealer is NOT recommended for plastic tanks.
1) To begin, drain fuel from tank. Proper fuel tank sealing also requires that the tank be removed from the vehicle. Remove any fittings such as floats, sending units, and filters.
2) Seal all openings with duct tape or cork-like stoppers.
3) Using a 1:1 dilution ratio, mix AquaKlean with hot water and pour mixture into tank. Let tank soak but always rotate it at intervals to ensure AquaKlean covers all surfaces. (NOTE: Heavy gum and varnish build-up may require extended soaking times up to 24 hours or more and/or the use of a pressure washer. Placing some nuts & bolts or loose chains inside the tank, along with frequent shaking and rotation, will help knock away loose rust and contaminants.)
4)
Empty tank and repeat as often as necessary.
5)
After a thorough cleaning, rinse generously with water until the solution runs clear. Drain tank and let dry.
1) Pour RustBlast full-strength into tank. Roll tank around to ensure all surfaces are kept wet with RustBlast. Repeat rolling and tipping tank every 5 minutes for a minimum of 20 minutes but no longer than 1 hour. IMPORTANT: DO NOT ALLOW RUSTBLAST TO DRY.
2) After sufficient contact, drain RustBlast and rinse tank thoroughly several times with water.
3) Allow tank to DRY COMPLETELY before proceeding. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. RustBlast MAY leave behind a visible white powdery coating. This is a zinc phosphate residue important for adhesion of the tank sealer.
NOTE: Drying is a critical step. If the tank is not completely dry, the sealer will not adhere properly.
1) Open Sealer and stir can thoroughly. DO NOT SHAKE can as this will introduce air and create bubbles.
2) Pour entire contents of can into tank and slowly rotate or roll tank until all sides are EVENLY coated. Please note that our Tank Sealer is formulated for use as a SINGLE COAT application so make sure you take the time to rotate & thoroughly coat the entire tank to ensure all weld seams & pinholes are completely sealed.
3) Drain ALL excess Sealer from tank for at least 30 minutes to avoid pooling & puddles before being placed down for Full Cure. If the design of the tank makes complete draining difficult, frequently rotating the tank during the curing process will help minimize pooling & puddles. It is very important to drain the tank very well for good Tank Sealer adhesion. Foaming & bubbling are signs of excessive Sealer & ineffective draining and sealing.
4) Immediately use any left-over Sealer for exterior painting or patching if needed. Also, remove any excess Sealer from threads and fuel lines before curing. Cured Sealer cannot be removed by any solvent.
5) When the job is finished, place remaining Sealer in can with lid off and let harden. (WARNING: If lid is put back on can before curing is complete, it may explode! Dispose of any hardened Sealer properly in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.)
6) Air-dry tank in a well-ventilated area. Allow 96 hours for maximum cure and before re-filling with fuel.
Use KBS BackBone Reinforcing Mesh for exterior repair of pinholes or weld seams. Prior to patching, prep the outside and inside of the tank by using AquaKlean and RustBlast and allow all surfaces to DRY COMPLETELY. Begin by sealing the inside of the tank as outlined above. Immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin layer on the outside weakened tank area(s). Using a suitably sized piece of BackBone Mesh, embed it directly into the wet Sealer and apply another thin coat of Sealer painting outward from the center. Let cure.
For exterior patching of holes that are larger than pinholes, use KBS NuMetal epoxy putty. Scuff up area to be patched with 320 grit sandpaper then proceed with cleaning & prepping the inside & outside of the tank. Follow the NuMetal application instructions. Let NuMetal cure for 12 hours before proceeding with sealing the inside of the tank. When draining tank, immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin coating on the exterior patched area for reinforced coverage.
Use KBS #1 Thinner for clean up and removal of any uncured sealer.
Use paint stripper to remove any old Tank Sealer. Pour stripper into tank. Carefully rotate tank to allow contact with all sides. When stripping fiberglass tanks, contact with the stripping agent should be kept to a minimum to avoid damage to the fiberglass resins.
NOTE: It may take multiple applications of stripper to finish the job completely. Old Sealer may come loose in big chunks or small pieces so use a long tweezer-type tool to help remove it from the tank. After stripping is complete, rinse tank generously with water and proceed with the KBS 3-Step System for Fuel Tank Preparation & Sealing.
The procedure for sealing a Fiberglass Tank is the same except for a variance in Step#2 RustBlast. In this instance, thoroughly wet the fiberglass surface for only 2 minutes with RustBlast then drain and rinse well as directed. Because you are not prepping metal or dissolving rust, RustBlast may be saved and re-used for future use. Before proceeding to sealing, make sure tank is COMPLETELY DRY. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. NOTE: Drying is a critical step for sealing fiberglass tanks. If the tank is not completely dry, the Sealer will not adhere properly.
Q. Does duct tape provide a sufficient seal to allow you to rotate, turn & invert the tank without the Sealer spilling all over the place?
A. Yes, duct tape or electrical tape works well. Also a piece of cork or rubber will seal small tubes.
Q. What’s the best way to prevent the Sealer from getting on the screw threads?
A. Apply a small amount of oil (WD-40 or similar) to the threads, and if the Sealer dries on those threads, it will peel right off.
Q. What’s the best way to remove the Sealer from the fairly small "L" shaped protrusions on the underside of each side of the tank? I can't get to it from the inside.
A. Use pipe cleaners or Q-Tips to remove the Sealer from these tubes before it cures.
Q. Any other tips, "tricks of the trade", suggestions, etc?
A. Just remember to be sure the tank is completely DRY before using the Sealer. Apply a thin film of oil wherever you DON’T want the Sealer to stick. Do NOT allow the Sealer to “puddle” in the tank. If the tank has baffles or a design which does not allow for complete draining of the excess Sealer, keep rotating the tank (every 30 min or so) as the Sealer cures to help prevent pooling.
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